There will be an authenticity committee inspection. Anyone
who does not pass the inspection might be considered to be
ineligible to participate in battles or camp activities.
No facial hair is preferred. However, mustaches are
acceptable as they were in fashion. Beards are not permitted
as they were very atypical; society did not approve of
beards due to the transmission of tuberculous.
No visible tattoos. If you have
them, make sure to hide them.
Hairstyles must be appropriate to the 1940s. For men, this
means making sure your hair is not too long.
CLOTHING AND GEAR
Do not wear any polyester, denim, or synthetic fabrics! Just
because the Resistance did not have uniforms does not mean
that researching what you should wear is optional. A good
impression is a lasting one; a bad impression is infinite.
There are a number of generalizations that we see in 1940's
French women's fashion. Of course, fashion varied as much
then as now, and a Breton woman living on a farm would
presumably dress much differently than a Parisienne. These
guidelines are simply to set you on the right course towards
having an authentic impression; as always, it's best to
supplement these guidelines with your own research of period
documents and photos.
Make do and mend - repaired and even stained garments
would fit in well. If
you’re taking part in the battles/scenarios make sure you
wear something you don’t mind getting torn or dirty.
Dresses & Skirts Polka dots, checkered
square as well as flowers with big, small and tangled
designs were common patterns for dresses.
Length is just below
or right at the knee.
Wartime dresses and skirts have less fabric due to
rationing, so no poofy skirts as they are postwar. A classic
A-line skirt is the best way to go.
Cotton is material of choice since it’s cooler, but wool and
rayon and were also common.
No polyester or polyester blends.Stay away from elastic as most won't have the proper
Leather or cloth-covered belts were common on
period dresses and pants, but not essential. •
Closures (zippers, snaps or hooks and eyes) for
dresses and skirts should always be metal and on the left
side of the garment.Short neck zippers are correct. Most full back
zippers are post war.
Blouses Collared blouses
were typical and often buttoned all the way up and paired
with a three-quarter length or long-sleeved knit sweater.
Shoulders were usually made to look more prominent with
Pants High, flat-wasted,
full-legged pants with side closures (zippers, snaps or
hooks and eyes) are a good option especially if you’re
Footwear 100% Cotton or 100%
wool socks and flat leather shoes (or shoes with a minimal
heel) or leather boots to allow ease of movement. Avoid
stockings as they will get torn. Minimal to no jewelry.
Hats 100% wool Basque
beret is the common hat of choice in the Maquis camp,
usually in black, brown or dark blue.
Hair & Make-up
Minimum make-up if any. Braids, snoods and buns are all easy
options. No straight hair or ponytails.
Military and Men Headgear:
A French beret is good but a Basque beret is preferred
(slightly smaller than the French version, originated out of
the Basque region of Spain) in black or navy; no insignia.
Civilian only. “Newsboy cap” of period material (tweed,
cotton, or wool); not an “Irish” version of the style. A
period correct fedora. French “Adrian” helmet from either
WWI or WWII (the former is blue, the latter green). No
German, British, or American headgear.
Cotton or linen button-up shirt (not a t-shirt) with or
without a collar. No button-down collars. Period correct
civilian sweaters and vests are fine too.
Brown leather, civilian jackets. Natural, dark color period
correct French moleskin work jackets.
Wool, corduroy (wide-ribbed is best), or moleskin civilian
pants. Cuffed pants are highly recommended.
Black or brown civilian, period correct belts (one solid
piece of leather) and suspenders (no elastic). German belts
and buckles “de-Nazified” or worn upside down with French
1930s or ‘40s civilian shoes or boots. British ammunition
boots. WWII era German boots. East-German winter boots are
an affordable alternative; however, your pants should cover
the wool uppers. French WWI or early WWII army boots. Modern
black U.S. army captoe, Vietnam-era boots are not
Any period correct military or civilian equipment bag is
good. For example, British, French, and German military bags
or French alpine pack.
*Captured (aka German) equipment should be kept to a minimum
of one or two pieces per person.
*Note: wool pants and leather jackets or a British rain cape
will keep you warm in case of rain.
French St. Etienne 8mm Model 1892 (Lebel); St Etienne (MAS)
7.65mm Model 1935A/1935S Pistol. British .455 or .38 Webley;
.38 Enfield. German P38; P08 (Luger); PPKs; P35 Browning
Hi-Power. American 1911 or 1911-A1 Government Model .45.
French Model 1886 Lebel; 1936 MAS and Berthier carbines (Be
warned: it will be difficult to find blanks for these guns).
British Enfield No. 1 Mk III; No. 4 Mk I. German Mauser KAR
98; Gewehr M98. The M1 Garand is NOT acceptable.
Reproduction, non-functioning British Mills are best; German
“potato masher,” or American “pineapple” grenades are
British Sten Mk IIs and Bren guns are preferable. Acceptable
“captured” weapons include German MGs and MPs. The Thompson
submachine gun is NOT acceptable.
Enamelware, period correct cups and plates. French, British,
or German canteens. Period-correct compasses, watches,
eyeglasses. Straight or safety razor. Period-correct
toothbrush , Vichy coins.
Bren gun pouches. British web gear. Period-correct British,
French, or German ammo pouches. WWII British, German, or
French bayonets. Civilian knives. British Fairbairn-Sykes
(FS) commando knife. British map case. British or German
Wool blankets, civilian or military. French or British mess
A 1935 Citroen is preferable but we’ll settle for 1930s and
1940s civilian and military bicycles.